Last October, during the closing days of Spring Fashion Month 2023, Thom Browne took fashion enthusiasts back to the gilded days of 19th century France at the Opéra Garnier Napoleon III. There, his troupe of models walked the runway theatrically in petticoats, crinoline silhouettes and tons and tons of wide-brimmed hats. It was a moment that perhaps best sums up the fashion trends of spring 2023: glamour, and lots of it.
Spring trends forged since last fall indicate a mutual desire to be big and bold – or at least to feel that way to some extent. They are asked to, as they say on Tik Tok, “romanticize” their lives in all aspects. In addition to a few nods to the crinoline skirt silhouette, houses like Alexander McQueen sent ensembles equipped with strong shoulders for those moments when you want to feel empowered. Valentino and Fendi emulated the draping technique synonymous with the dresses often depicted on pious women from Greek mythology. Some designers, like Ralph Lauren, pointed to the American Wild West and all the escapism that comes within the region’s rolling landscapes.
However, some designers have also made it clear that this desire for glamor does not always have to be manifested in a big window display. Luxury, which is more of a whisper than a shout, is still on many people’s minds. For them, glamor is not covered in gold, but is found in the smallest details. And according to some houses like Miu Miu, glamor can be found in practicality. What’s not luxurious about having several pockets available to hold your treasures?
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Below are some of the trends for spring 2023 that are sure to make this season visually beautiful.
Revival of the crinoline silhouette
In the 19th century, crinoline, a structured petticoat, was used to widen women’s skirts to make waists appear smaller. Is it possible that he is back? Along with Thom Browne, Loewe, Gypsy Sport and Jacquemus sent several versions of their own. How to incorporate this dramatic silhouette into your own wardrobe? Easy. Going to a wedding? How about a chic cocktail party uptown? The crinoline silhouette is sure to dazzle today just as it did more than 200 years ago.
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Strength to the shoulders
Nothing evokes more sartorial power than a strong, bold shoulder. The British love it (that’s why Alexander McQueen is the leader of the trend) and, like the aforementioned trend, it emphasizes the waist. But the British were not the only ones who participated in this trend. Gucci exhibited plenty of jackets with strong shoulders (a departure from the usual Italian silhouette), as did Schiaparelli. If you want to feel both glamorous and powerful, find an off the shoulder blazer as such.
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Goddess effect
Glamor is found in ease and fashion houses have understood this for 2023. Where else to find inspiration than Greek goddesses who wore draped clothes. At Valentino, Ferragamo and Fendi, silk chiffon dresses fluttered effortlessly down the catwalk, all the while conjuring up fantasies: spring trips to Italy or perhaps jogging through the French countryside. Whatever and wherever it is, it’s time to invest in a garment that channels the romantic powers of Aphrodite herself.
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Modest luxury
Make fun of logos? Think the peacock is something for the nouveau? Or maybe you’re just someone who dresses a little quiet to begin with. Well, for those who may be turning their backs on loud fashion trends, don’t fret: the designers cater to you, too. Mary Kate and Ashley Olson are the American emblem of quiet luxury this spring 2023 season as well. And with them, Matthieu Blazey from Bottega Veneta wonders why glamor has to be a big deal? Can performing everyday life duties, such as going to the store or running errands, be luxurious? This spring season, think about luxury in every day.
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Wild West
Few places offer an escape the way the American Wild West does. While it’s certainly not as wild or as barren as depicted in the movies of the last century, the terrain still evokes a sense of fantasy – especially to Ralph Lauren. However, it is not only the American designer who attracts the attention of the West. Burberry, in a seemingly novel move, sent full denim looks down the runway with some cowboy-esque pants. For the spring 2023 season, don’t be afraid to incorporate a beaded brushed leather jacket or even a pair of cowboy boots into your wardrobe.
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Pockets galore
While breaking away from the folds of the aforementioned trends, several designers have set their sights on cargo this season because, haven’t you heard? Practicality is always luxurious. This season, pockets were a big hit with designer houses as many pants had not just one set of pockets, but two, sometimes three! Givenchy stocked up on pockets, and so did Miu Miu and Isabel Marant. Obviously, loads are here to stay. At least for the spring 2023 season.
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Style news editor at City and village covering society, style, art and design.