Men’s fashion had an undeniably strong start this weekend in Milan, the first major fair of the year.
Judging by the offer so far, next spring and winter will be pleasant for night owls.
Think glitter and shimmer, fun silhouettes that invite a shadow dance and sexy skin peeks with tailoring tricks that were once reserved for women’s wardrobes.
Back to black
When the lights go down, a return to black could be the leitmotif for Dolce & Gabbana.
His entire collection for the following winter was in mostly black monochromes, all the better for the naughty game. Gray and white monochromatic colors played a secondary role.
Although it was lightweight, the look was anything but basic. Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana created a collection built around tailoring, with late-night syncopated club beats in mind.
Long coats or dramatic capes will get you to the door of the club. Inside, the men’s corset, both belts and waist belts cinch the waist, a silhouette that is mimicked in the dramatic hourglass cut of coats and jackets with rounded waists and broad shoulders. The strobe picks up the sparkle and shine on the garments, while sheer tops and muscular knits show off the physique.
Machine Gun Kelly and Italian singer Blanco were among the guests in the front rows of the designer duo.
Armani pays tribute to Milan
Giorgio Armani has been on the world fashion map for more than four decades. His latest collection for Emporio Armani drew a literal map of his adopted Milan, with models walking the perimeter of the circular runway giving a bird’s-eye view of the map of the fashion capital’s historic center.
The collection was inspired by aviation, and there were also traces of tailoring from the golden era of flying, when hotties like Charles Lindbergh made history by crossing the Atlantic solo.
A gray jumpsuit with a belt and a fur collar, an aviator cap and thick boots set the tone. Once it lands, there are muted plaid suits with trousers cut just above the boot – the invention of the season. The equipment is stored in bags and nautical bags.
Comfortable knitwear in combination with leather pants and a jacket, some of which have vintage finishes, creates an adventurous silhouette. But the real hunk comes out in vibrant daywear, including a gorgeous coat in an elegant camel color, velvet jackets in deep hues and silk shirts worn with fringes in vibrant colors like magenta, purple and violet.
Leather belts and utility belts added an edge. Purses are strapped to the top of the boots. Mirrored aviator glasses complete the look.
Next winter’s Fendi collection shines with leather in ways once reserved for women.
One-shoulder tops – both knit and button-up – bare skin to add sexy drama to the look. The knit was super sheer, barely there. A bit of layering brought back some modesty for the office, but could easily be undone for an evening transition.
Long coats included a wraparound asymmetric cape, a tailoring trick mimicked in trousers with a skirt wrapped to one side. The effect was pleasant and enveloping, offering a cocoon as we returned to the world.
Fendi whims were fully displayed in knitted hats: one in the form of a cool cartoon wig with a charming flap or another hat with a fringe on the back. Capes and loose coats and scarves also ended up with fringes. Bombers had an old, worn feel. The palate was mostly modest tones of grey, oatmeal and burnt umber combined with purple and lavender.
K-Way celebrates Parisian heritage
Franco-Italian activewear brand K-Way imported part of its Parisian birthplace as a backdrop to showcase a new collection that marks the transition to a lifestyle brand.
The trademark K-Way packable raincoats were inspired when brand founder Leon-Claude Duhamel saw two children wearing red nylon raincoats while sitting at Cafe de la Paix on a rainy day in 1965.
To pay homage to that heritage, the Italian owners borrowed the cafe’s original tables and wicker seating from the Parisian landmark. Duhamel himself, now in his 80s, joined the fashionable crowd sipping champagne and nibbling on cream cakes in a recreated cafe.
Sales VP Lorenzo Boglione, whose family controls parent company BasicNet, is helping the company transition the brand, with plans to produce technical gear for sailing and skiing.
This means you don’t just focus on outerwear. The new collection included cropped puffer jackets with tight accordion pleats, Yeti-style short coats with matching boots layered over skinny suits or quilted shorts and tops.
Long puffer coats, like a sleeping bag, paired with detachable hoods or fur collars. The brand’s signature zipper acts as a logo, providing accents alongside function. The color selection veered towards the traditional K-Way orange and blue, with some white and green.