Marco De Vincenzo has officially stepped in as creative director of Etro, and his first menswear collection as head of the Italian fashion house is finally here. Although the designer closed the doors of his eponymous label back in 2020, Kean Etro is now handing over the keys to Vincenzo in hopes of creating a new vision for the 55-year-old label.
For Spring/Summer 2023, Etro’s menswear department has offered a poetic offering that reflects the brand’s delicate identity. The collection exuded soft notes of refreshed masculinity and saw Kean Etro’s last hurray take shape through a sentimental lens that acted as a tender love message to the brand.
Now, De Vincenzo’s Etro heads to Milan Fashion Week to present its Fall/Winter 2023 collection.
Many heritage houses are in a period of reset and refinement, and that couldn’t ring truer for Etro. With De Vincenzo, the Italian label finds a new direction saturated with the codes of the 70s, and it is the perfect vision to shake up the brand. Much to the delight of visitors, the new creative director hit it right out of the park.
Merino wool made up many of the opening looks, with sweaters and cardigans shaping the relaxed, casual identity of the house. These garments featured muted palettes and geometric shapes, leather buttons and soft details – shoulders were naturally curved, hems fell below the waist, and everything screamed “comfort”.
It’s a welcome departure from the current trend of over-the-top this onebigger and better that. Etro’s new look became all the more impressive when the swirling mash-ups of purple sweaters received many compliments from visitors. Likewise, crochet knit tops and sweaters with three-dimensional knit appliqués — some orange, others leafy — continued to represent the ’70s vibe.
Trousers floated and flared out at the bottom, suit jackets with large lapels and bold plaid prints, embroidered fleeces, coats and embroidered leather biker jackets made a comeback, while contemporary details such as skirts (a big trend this season), studded clogs and bum bags teamed up for some coolness.
Bags were a particular highlight. Most were tucked under the arms, allowing embroidered vintage designs and rich leather tones to subtly shine through. But the show-stealing number was a small handpiece, which combined the House logo with intricate retro graphics.
Backstage, Hypebeast got a closer look at Vincenzo’s new design. Details delivered up close, and to find out more, we spoke to the designer to understand his plans for Etro menswear.
“Shoj is always beautiful and important for the brand. Etro started [here], showcasing tartan which is one of the most important fabrics in the history of Etro,” explained De Vincenzo. “I study every day. Tailoring and masculinity is something that Etro has in its code.”
Speaking about his new Etro man, the creative director said: “He is a man who brings together the private and the public. Most of the outfits are a combination of something very comfortable and at the same time look eccentric. I can’t find a word to describe this combination, but this is the key to my future in the brand.”
And finally, he simply called his choice to add fur coats to his pants “romantic and, why not, feminine.”
You can see the Etro FW23 collection in the gallery above, and stay tuned to Hypebeast for more Milan Fashion Week FW23 content in the coming days.
For something on the other side of the fashion realm, check out the Prada FW23 futuristic cleanup.